How to Make a Rose With Cake Icing

How to Make a Rose With Cake Icing

Rose flowers are a beautiful decoration to work with when decorating a cake. While they look complicated when you see piped roses in bakeries, piping a rose onto a cake is simpler than it may seem. This basic tutorial will introduce you to the world of icing art, with a simple style of rose to make at home.

Edit Steps

Preparing the Icing

1. Fill the piping bag with your colored royal icing. Add the rose tip to the bag before filling.
   

   • If you don’t have royal icing, read the article on making royal icing.
   • Note that when piping, it is good to put the icing bag in your dominant hand; this way you’ll get the best motor control over the piping.

Piping the Rose

1. Prepare the rose nail. Pipe a small amount of icing onto the top of the rose nail, and then press a small square of wax paper onto the icing, using the icing to hold the paper and nail together.
   

2. Make the rose’s center. Place the tip of the pastry bag with the rose tip onto the rose nail, with the wide end touching the wax paper. Spin the nail in a full circle to make a cone shape. You will need to synchronize your hand movements so that you’re moving as fast as the icing is coming out.
   

3. Make the first layer of petals around the cone. Make each petal a little bit higher than the center, and make each third the circumference of the rose center, so that you can have three petals total.
   

4. Make the second layer of petals. This layer will have five petals total. Keep on making the petals higher than the others so that they arc upwards and outwards. Also, try to overlap the petals to make them look natural.
   

5. Make the final layer of petals. This one should consist of about seven evenly spaced petals. If you want a larger rose, you can continue to add layers.
   

Using the Icing Rose

1. Carefully slide the rose and the wax paper off the nail. Then, put it on a baking sheet or other flat surface. Give it 24 hours to harden.
   

2. Finished. It can now be added to a cake or other baked good as decoration.
   

Edit Tips

• Make sure to color the icing your desired color before putting it in the pastry bag.
• Try to make the next layer of petals a little bit higher than the previous, with the ends of the roses arcing outwards.
• There are other ways to make roses with icing; this is one way that is straightforward and easily learned by novice cake decorators.

Edit Warnings

• Take care not to poke yourself with the rose nail.
• Don’t make the rose so big that it falls off the wax paper.

Edit Things You’ll Need

• A pastry bag and coupler
• A batch of frosting (preferably royal icing)
• A large rose tip
• A rose nail
• Small squares of wax paper

Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Fondant a Cake
• How to Add Fresh Flowers to a Cake
• How to Make a Texas Cake With Icing
• How to Make Frosting
• How to Make Roses out of Fondant
• How to Make Frosted Rose Petals
• How to Make Buttercream Icing
• How to Make Orange Icing

Edit Sources and Citations

• http://candy.about.com/od/candybasics/ss/frosting_rose.htm – research source

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How to Make Manga

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Make Manga

Manga are comics from Japan. Unlike American comic books, they have their own aesthetic to them including their signature large and expressive eyes. But drawing and creating Manga is an art form that takes practice and creativity. Here is a wikiHow guide to making manga.




Edit Steps

1. Observe and research manga. Learn the different styles, such as shonen and shoujo, and the differences between them. Understand the techniques used.
   

2. Learn how to draw. A manga tells a story in pictures, and your story will be a little limited if all your characters are stick figures. Using your knowledge of the manga styles, develop an individual style instead of sticking to the stereotypes of manga. If you can’t draw, find an artist, but you have to be an excellent writer to stand a chance finding a good artist.
   

3. Write a script. As with all stories, you’ll need to plan well. Know exactly what’s going to happen in your story, view it in your head like a movie or an animé before writing it out. If you are working with an artist, you’ll need to give them a precise, vivid description or a basic storyboard for them to understand your script.
   

4. Make the basics of the manga. When you were writing the script, you should have known exactly how you were going to lay out your manga, but if not, draw out the panels and draw sketches onto paper to represent characters. If you’re working with an artist, ask them if they want to do this or if you should do it for them. At this stage, since you’re not making the details, it doesn’t matter if your artist doesn’t fully understand the script and gets something wrong, as you’ll be able to correct them or change it without destroying any solid work. Do not add in the speech bubbles yet.
   

5. Fill in the details. Flesh out the characters, turn your basic plan into a work of art. If you’re working with an artist, leave this stage up to them. Still do not add in the speech bubbles.
   

6. Scan in your pages.
   

7. Using a picture editing software such as Adobe Photoshop or GIMP, clean up your lineart and make sure it looks professional. A graphics tablet is an extremely good idea for using this, so you can edit anything with the same precision as with a pencil. Again, leave this stage to the artist if they have any graphics experience.
   

8. Optionally, colour and shade the manga. If you intend to make a lot of manga on a weekly basis, you probably will not want to colour it, but a one-shot manga or a short graphic novel would be good in colour.
   

9. Add in the speech bubbles and effects using your picture editing software. Keep it clean – do not colour-code your speech bubbles or add in unnecessary effects. If you’re working with an artist, you may want him or her to do some of the more complicated effects, but anybody can make ordinary speech bubbles.
   

10. Try getting published by one of these methods:
    

    • If you want to take the easy way out, use a website such as Comicgenesis.com and publish it as a free webcomic, but the only money you can make from this will be from merchandise and donations – not a good way to go, if you plan to be a full time mangaka.
    • Find a publisher in your own country. If this is your first manga, this is definitely the way to go. You may think that it will not sell, as it is not of Japanese origin, but with the increasing popularity of manga across the world, you may be surprised.
    • If you are determined to publish in Japan, however, prepare yourself for dedication and disappointment. Becoming a mangaka in Japan is not an easy thing to do, especially if you are not Japanese – however, it isn’t impossible. Try taking part in a contest that manga magazines hold. This is the easiest way to establish yourself in the Japanese manga industry.




Edit Video




Edit Tips

• Know the limits. Don’t make storylines too long in every chapter, as they tend to be boring (unless you are adding fight scenes in the story). Also don’t put too much dialogue in the story as it tends to be even more boring.
• When selecting a storyline, always think of the genres. First select your audience. For example, if you are writing for young boys, you will want to put in a lot of action and cool characters, but if you are writing for young girls, you might want something more peaceful and cute. Do not limit yourself to stereotypes of genres, but be careful when mixing them. Putting aliens pointlessly into a romance story will be a little odd, but as per Kashimashi, if they’re necessary to the plot, there’s nothing stopping you.
• You don’t need to color your entire manga, only the first few pages and then the rest black, and white. That’s how it is in most mangas.
• Try to publish something in your own country. If you haven’t, you will almost certainly be turned down by a Japanese publisher.
• You will not be able to get a working visa in Japan just by saying you want to be a mangaka. However, if you are between the ages of 18 and 25, you will be able to get a working holiday visa, which will allow you to work in Japan for one year, and if a publisher wants you, you might be able to organize a proper working visa. If you are too young or too old, you will need to establish connections.
• Be creative and choose wisely before putting any main and additional characters. Intertwine the plot and characters, but only add extras if it would make no sense for them not to be present – such as the main character’s family.




Edit Warnings

• Avoid changing the story once you’ve started doing the proper images, especially if you are working with an artist.
• Be prepared to make very little money. Unless you are publishing on a weekly basis or so, you may only be paid once or twice a year. If you have a family you need to look after, only make manga in your spare time or after you retire unless your partner is prepared to work.
• If your work gets rejected, it’s not the end. Ask where you’ve gone wrong, fix this and try again.
• The story comes first. A manga that focuses on the art instead of the story is a guaranteed failure.




Edit Things You’ll Need

• Manuscript paper (special paper that has the right border line and size for a comic book)
• Eraser
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Computer
• Scanner
• Picture editing software
• Optional – graphics tablet (if you are planning to do a lot of work on the computer)
• Optional – Music (try listening to something appropriate to your genre or the mood you are currently writing with)
• Optional – compass (for assistance with drawing circles)
• Optional – basic stencils (for assistance with drawing shapes of a certain size)




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Become a Manga Ka
• How to Develop Your Own Manga Style
• How to Create and Develop a Manga Character
• How to Draw Manga
• How to Draw Manga Hair
• How to Tell Which Way a Manga Is Read
• How to Be a Pro Mangaka
• How to Panel Manga



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How to Play Go

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Play Go

Go is a game where two players contest for territory; it is perhaps the oldest board game in the world. The rules are simple and you can learn them in minutes. Many enthusiasts regard Go as an art; the game’s almost infinite variations have stumped even the most advanced computers. Learning to play is easy, but learning to play well takes time and practice. Read along to familiarize yourself with this ancient, intriguing, and clever game.




Edit Steps




The Board & Pieces

1. Use a standard 19×19 grid. There are 19 horizontal and vertical lines. You can use a board or make a grid yourself.
   

   • Sometimes smaller boards are used. Often 13×13 or 9×9 boards are used for quicker games or for teaching.
   • There should be nine marked points spread out evenly on the board (3rd, 9th, and 15th lines). They are called “star points” and serve as reference points or markers for handicap games.
2. Have 361 black and white stones ready. This amount is for a 19×19 game. The number correlates to the amount of intersections on the board. If you are playing on a smaller board, use fewer stones.
   • Black plays with 181 stones and white with 180. This is because black makes the first move.
   • Keep the stones next to the board, in bowls.




The Rules

1. Alternate moves. Traditionally, black starts first.
   • Stones can also be placed on the edge, where there is a T-intersection.
   • Once a stone is placed, it cannot be moved (unless captured and removed).
2. Acquire territory. This can be done in one of two ways:
   • Territory is empty spaces that are bordered or surrounded by stones of the same color. The bigger the territory you surround, the more points you gain.
     • Corners can be used as a border as well.
   • You will lose a point if you place a stone inside your own territory.
3. Employ capturing. Connect your stones together to capture your opponent’s pieces.
   • Stones of the same color on immediately adjacent points are said to be connected, or joined. The connection can be horizontal or vertical, but not diagonal–the connection is along the lines.
   • Fill all the adjacent points around your players pieces to capture them. Once captured, remove them from the board and keep them in a separate pile.
   • No empty spaces can be within the border.
4. Finish the game when all territory is claimed. Both players pass and the game is over. Count up how many points (or intersections) each color guards.
   • Place all captured stones in the opposing players territory. Thus, their score is reduced due to lost intersections.
     • Therefore, a captured stone is worth two points. One point negated from your opponent’s score and one point for the new empty space surrounded upon removal.
   • Capturing is what makes this game a battle of wits. While gaining territory is the main goal, one must think defensively at all times.
5. Know your terms. As this is an ancient Japanese game, there are many words to know.
   • Liberty – an adjacent intersection
   • Atari – a state in which a piece can be captured in the next move
     • For example, “Your white stone over there is in atari! Haha!”
   • Eye – a single empty space inside a group
     • If there is an eye, capturing is not possible, as not all the empty space is filled
   • Suicide – placing a stone where it can be captured
   • Ko – a situation in which a stone about to make a capture can be immediately recaptured, which would repeat the situation endlessly. Capturing cannot immediately take place after a ko.




Playing a Game

1. Find an opponent. Someone who is well-versed in the game will be a better teacher and example.
   • You can look for a game either face-to-face or on an online go-server. For face-to-face games, look for a local chapter of the AGA, BGA, or your national Go organization. You will likely find a list of Go clubs on their websites. For online games, some Go servers are listed below.
   • IGS
   • KGS
   • DGS
   • Yahoo
   • MSN Zone
   • Goshrine
   • 361points
2. Start the game by choosing a color. In a handicap game, the stronger player takes white, and black places 2-9 handicap stones on the star points before white answers.
   • For an even game, the colors are determined randomly. Since black has an advantage by playing first, white is compensated by taking komi, an amount of additional points added to white’s score at the end of the game.
   • The amount of komi varies, but most tournaments use values between 5 and 8 points. Sometimes a fractional value like 6.5 is used to avoid ties.
3. Place the first stone. This should be done by the player with black stones. It traditionally goes in the upper right hand quadrant.
   • This initial move stakes out which side each player lays claim to.
   • Handicap stones are considered the first move in a handicap game.
4. Take turns alternating playing stones. Remember, the pieces are placed on the intersections of the grid, not the empty spaces on the board.
   • Either player may pass if they see no benefit to making a move. Passing signals a desire to end the game and count the score.
     • If both players pass, the game is over.
5. Decide on your strategy. There are generally two options: claiming the most territory or invading your opponent’s territory by capturing their pieces (turning them into “prisoners”).
   

   • If a player places a stone that removes the last liberty from a connected group of the opponent’s stones, then that group is dead and is removed from the board (captured).
   • 

     The exception to the above rule is that you cannot capture a single stone that just captured one of your stones without playing elsewhere first. This is called the ko rule (“ko” means “eternity” in Japanese); it is needed to prevent games from never ending.

6. End the game when both players pass. Black and white must both decide there is no advantage to laying another stone.
   • The player who has captured the most stones and territory wins. Captured pieces should be placed on the board in the opponent’s territory, decreasing their score.
7. Score the game. You can use either area counting or territory counting. The two methods agree provided both players have made the same number of non-passing moves.
   • For area counting, each color scores a point for each living stone of that color and each empty intersection within their territory. White then adds their komi.
   • For territory counting, each color fills in their opponent’s territory with any prisoners of that color captured earlier in the game. Their score is then only the empty intersections in their territory. White then adds their komi.




Edit Video




Edit Tips

• An old proverb, paraphrased, recommends you to “lose your first fifty games as soon as possible.” This is good advice, but remember to pay attention to why you are losing (of course), so that when you lose again, you need not lose in the same way.
• Play demonstration games with stronger players. These are games where the more experienced player will play certain moves so that you recognize the proper responses.
• Read Yahoo’s rules, since they go into more detail about the different rules and strategies of the game. However, playing on Yahoo is not recommended, as the server uses the ranking system for Chess rather than the traditional Japanese system that is most widely used.
• Keep your calm, even if your position deteriorates unexpectedly. A close game can avalanche against a player, often not simply because they lost ground locally, but because they let fear overtake them and lost their concentration. Hang in there. If something does go wrong, at least make every effort to contain and minimize the loss. If it comes to it, lose or resign gracefully. The odds of playing a divine move (a single move that can turn a losing game into a winning game) are very slim, especially against experienced players.




Edit Warnings

• Online games are often played quickly, so watch your time.
• Although the rules of Go are often described as simple and natural, there are several different rule sets. Popular rule sets include Chinese, Japanese, New Zealand, AGA, and ING. Further complicating matters are game servers that claim to use one of the above rule sets, but don’t program them correctly. For example, Yahoo is notorious for allowing a player who disputes the scoring to turn the game into no pass Go. Fortunately, the situations where it makes a significant difference almost always occur in artificial situations unlikely to occur (or to be recognized if they do occur) in natural games.
• Be considerate to the other player, whether in person or on the internet.




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Find Games You Used to Play Online
• How to Create a Learner’s Go Board
• How to Successfully Play Internet Riddle Trail Games
• How to Play Big Booty
• How to Play Hex
• How to Become a Good Poker Player




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://www.pandanet.co.jp/English/learning_go/learning_go_5.html
• http://playgo.to/interactive/
• http://games.yahoo.com
• http://www.zone.com
• http://www.dragongoserver.net/
• http://www.pandanet.co.jp/English/
• http://www.gokgs.com/
• http://senseis.xmp.net/
• http://www.usgo.org/
• http://www.britgo.org/



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• Read on wikiHow
• Email this Article
• Edit
• Discuss
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How to Play Go

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Play Go

Go is a game where two players contest for territory; it is perhaps the oldest board game in the world. The rules are simple and you can learn them in minutes. Many enthusiasts regard Go as an art; the game’s almost infinite variations have stumped even the most advanced computers. Learning to play is easy, but learning to play well takes time and practice. Read along to familiarize yourself with this ancient, intriguing, and clever game.




Edit Steps




The Board & Pieces

1. Use a standard 19×19 grid. There are 19 horizontal and vertical lines. You can use a board or make a grid yourself.
   

   • Sometimes smaller boards are used. Often 13×13 or 9×9 boards are used for quicker games or for teaching.
   • There should be nine marked points spread out evenly on the board (3rd, 9th, and 15th lines). They are called “star points” and serve as reference points or markers for handicap games.
2. Have 361 black and white stones ready. This amount is for a 19×19 game. The number correlates to the amount of intersections on the board. If you are playing on a smaller board, use fewer stones.
   • Black plays with 181 stones and white with 180. This is because black makes the first move.
   • Keep the stones next to the board, in bowls.




The Rules

1. Alternate moves. Traditionally, black starts first.
   • Stones can also be placed on the edge, where there is a T-intersection.
   • Once a stone is placed, it cannot be moved (unless captured and removed).
2. Acquire territory. This can be done in one of two ways:
   • Territory is empty spaces that are bordered or surrounded by stones of the same color. The bigger the territory you surround, the more points you gain.
     • Corners can be used as a border as well.
   • You will lose a point if you place a stone inside your own territory.
3. Employ capturing. Connect your stones together to capture your opponent’s pieces.
   • Stones of the same color on immediately adjacent points are said to be connected, or joined. The connection can be horizontal or vertical, but not diagonal–the connection is along the lines.
   • Fill all the adjacent points around your players pieces to capture them. Once captured, remove them from the board and keep them in a separate pile.
   • No empty spaces can be within the border.
4. Finish the game when all territory is claimed. Both players pass and the game is over. Count up how many points (or intersections) each color guards.
   • Place all captured stones in the opposing players territory. Thus, their score is reduced due to lost intersections.
     • Therefore, a captured stone is worth two points. One point negated from your opponent’s score and one point for the new empty space surrounded upon removal.
   • Capturing is what makes this game a battle of wits. While gaining territory is the main goal, one must think defensively at all times.
5. Know your terms. As this is an ancient Japanese game, there are many words to know.
   • Liberty – an adjacent intersection
   • Atari – a state in which a piece can be captured in the next move
     • For example, “Your white stone over there is in atari! Haha!”
   • Eye – a single empty space inside a group
     • If there is an eye, capturing is not possible, as not all the empty space is filled
   • Suicide – placing a stone where it can be captured
   • Ko – a situation in which a stone about to make a capture can be immediately recaptured, which would repeat the situation endlessly. Capturing cannot immediately take place after a ko.




Playing a Game

1. Find an opponent. Someone who is well-versed in the game will be a better teacher and example.
   • You can look for a game either face-to-face or on an online go-server. For face-to-face games, look for a local chapter of the AGA, BGA, or your national Go organization. You will likely find a list of Go clubs on their websites. For online games, some Go servers are listed below.
   • IGS
   • KGS
   • DGS
   • Yahoo
   • MSN Zone
   • Goshrine
   • 361points
2. Start the game by choosing a color. In a handicap game, the stronger player takes white, and black places 2-9 handicap stones on the star points before white answers.
   • For an even game, the colors are determined randomly. Since black has an advantage by playing first, white is compensated by taking komi, an amount of additional points added to white’s score at the end of the game.
   • The amount of komi varies, but most tournaments use values between 5 and 8 points. Sometimes a fractional value like 6.5 is used to avoid ties.
3. Place the first stone. This should be done by the player with black stones. It traditionally goes in the upper right hand quadrant.
   • This initial move stakes out which side each player lays claim to.
   • Handicap stones are considered the first move in a handicap game.
4. Take turns alternating playing stones. Remember, the pieces are placed on the intersections of the grid, not the empty spaces on the board.
   • Either player may pass if they see no benefit to making a move. Passing signals a desire to end the game and count the score.
     • If both players pass, the game is over.
5. Decide on your strategy. There are generally two options: claiming the most territory or invading your opponent’s territory by capturing their pieces (turning them into “prisoners”).
   

   • If a player places a stone that removes the last liberty from a connected group of the opponent’s stones, then that group is dead and is removed from the board (captured).
   • 

     The exception to the above rule is that you cannot capture a single stone that just captured one of your stones without playing elsewhere first. This is called the ko rule (“ko” means “eternity” in Japanese); it is needed to prevent games from never ending.

6. End the game when both players pass. Black and white must both decide there is no advantage to laying another stone.
   • The player who has captured the most stones and territory wins. Captured pieces should be placed on the board in the opponent’s territory, decreasing their score.
7. Score the game. You can use either area counting or territory counting. The two methods agree provided both players have made the same number of non-passing moves.
   • For area counting, each color scores a point for each living stone of that color and each empty intersection within their territory. White then adds their komi.
   • For territory counting, each color fills in their opponent’s territory with any prisoners of that color captured earlier in the game. Their score is then only the empty intersections in their territory. White then adds their komi.




Edit Video




Edit Tips

• An old proverb, paraphrased, recommends you to “lose your first fifty games as soon as possible.” This is good advice, but remember to pay attention to why you are losing (of course), so that when you lose again, you need not lose in the same way.
• Play demonstration games with stronger players. These are games where the more experienced player will play certain moves so that you recognize the proper responses.
• Read Yahoo’s rules, since they go into more detail about the different rules and strategies of the game. However, playing on Yahoo is not recommended, as the server uses the ranking system for Chess rather than the traditional Japanese system that is most widely used.
• Keep your calm, even if your position deteriorates unexpectedly. A close game can avalanche against a player, often not simply because they lost ground locally, but because they let fear overtake them and lost their concentration. Hang in there. If something does go wrong, at least make every effort to contain and minimize the loss. If it comes to it, lose or resign gracefully. The odds of playing a divine move (a single move that can turn a losing game into a winning game) are very slim, especially against experienced players.




Edit Warnings

• Online games are often played quickly, so watch your time.
• Although the rules of Go are often described as simple and natural, there are several different rule sets. Popular rule sets include Chinese, Japanese, New Zealand, AGA, and ING. Further complicating matters are game servers that claim to use one of the above rule sets, but don’t program them correctly. For example, Yahoo is notorious for allowing a player who disputes the scoring to turn the game into no pass Go. Fortunately, the situations where it makes a significant difference almost always occur in artificial situations unlikely to occur (or to be recognized if they do occur) in natural games.
• Be considerate to the other player, whether in person or on the internet.




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Find Games You Used to Play Online
• How to Create a Learner’s Go Board
• How to Successfully Play Internet Riddle Trail Games
• How to Play Big Booty
• How to Play Hex
• How to Become a Good Poker Player




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://www.pandanet.co.jp/English/learning_go/learning_go_5.html
• http://playgo.to/interactive/
• http://games.yahoo.com
• http://www.zone.com
• http://www.dragongoserver.net/
• http://www.pandanet.co.jp/English/
• http://www.gokgs.com/
• http://senseis.xmp.net/
• http://www.usgo.org/
• http://www.britgo.org/



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• Read on wikiHow
• Email this Article
• Edit
• Discuss
Go to Source



Share your thoughts..

How to Play Go

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Play Go

Go is a game where two players contest for territory; it is perhaps the oldest board game in the world. The rules are simple and you can learn them in minutes. Many enthusiasts regard Go as an art; the game’s almost infinite variations have stumped even the most advanced computers. Learning to play is easy, but learning to play well takes time and practice. Read along to familiarize yourself with this ancient, intriguing, and clever game.




Edit Steps




The Board & Pieces

1. Use a standard 19×19 grid. There are 19 horizontal and vertical lines. You can use a board or make a grid yourself.
   

   • Sometimes smaller boards are used. Often 13×13 or 9×9 boards are used for quicker games or for teaching.
   • There should be nine marked points spread out evenly on the board (3rd, 9th, and 15th lines). They are called “star points” and serve as reference points or markers for handicap games.
2. Have 361 black and white stones ready. This amount is for a 19×19 game. The number correlates to the amount of intersections on the board. If you are playing on a smaller board, use fewer stones.
   • Black plays with 181 stones and white with 180. This is because black makes the first move.
   • Keep the stones next to the board, in bowls.




The Rules

1. Alternate moves. Traditionally, black starts first.
   • Stones can also be placed on the edge, where there is a T-intersection.
   • Once a stone is placed, it cannot be moved (unless captured and removed).
2. Acquire territory. This can be done in one of two ways:
   • Territory is empty spaces that are bordered or surrounded by stones of the same color. The bigger the territory you surround, the more points you gain.
     • Corners can be used as a border as well.
   • You will lose a point if you place a stone inside your own territory.
3. Employ capturing. Connect your stones together to capture your opponent’s pieces.
   • Stones of the same color on immediately adjacent points are said to be connected, or joined. The connection can be horizontal or vertical, but not diagonal–the connection is along the lines.
   • Fill all the adjacent points around your players pieces to capture them. Once captured, remove them from the board and keep them in a separate pile.
   • No empty spaces can be within the border.
4. Finish the game when all territory is claimed. Both players pass and the game is over. Count up how many points (or intersections) each color guards.
   • Place all captured stones in the opposing players territory. Thus, their score is reduced due to lost intersections.
     • Therefore, a captured stone is worth two points. One point negated from your opponent’s score and one point for the new empty space surrounded upon removal.
   • Capturing is what makes this game a battle of wits. While gaining territory is the main goal, one must think defensively at all times.
5. Know your terms. As this is an ancient Japanese game, there are many words to know.
   • Liberty – an adjacent intersection
   • Atari – a state in which a piece can be captured in the next move
     • For example, “Your white stone over there is in atari! Haha!”
   • Eye – a single empty space inside a group
     • If there is an eye, capturing is not possible, as not all the empty space is filled
   • Suicide – placing a stone where it can be captured
   • Ko – a situation in which a stone about to make a capture can be immediately recaptured, which would repeat the situation endlessly. Capturing cannot immediately take place after a ko.




Playing a Game

1. Find an opponent. Someone who is well-versed in the game will be a better teacher and example.
   • You can look for a game either face-to-face or on an online go-server. For face-to-face games, look for a local chapter of the AGA, BGA, or your national Go organization. You will likely find a list of Go clubs on their websites. For online games, some Go servers are listed below.
   • IGS
   • KGS
   • DGS
   • Yahoo
   • MSN Zone
   • Goshrine
   • 361points
2. Start the game by choosing a color. In a handicap game, the stronger player takes white, and black places 2-9 handicap stones on the star points before white answers.
   • For an even game, the colors are determined randomly. Since black has an advantage by playing first, white is compensated by taking komi, an amount of additional points added to white’s score at the end of the game.
   • The amount of komi varies, but most tournaments use values between 5 and 8 points. Sometimes a fractional value like 6.5 is used to avoid ties.
3. Place the first stone. This should be done by the player with black stones. It traditionally goes in the upper right hand quadrant.
   • This initial move stakes out which side each player lays claim to.
   • Handicap stones are considered the first move in a handicap game.
4. Take turns alternating playing stones. Remember, the pieces are placed on the intersections of the grid, not the empty spaces on the board.
   • Either player may pass if they see no benefit to making a move. Passing signals a desire to end the game and count the score.
     • If both players pass, the game is over.
5. Decide on your strategy. There are generally two options: claiming the most territory or invading your opponent’s territory by capturing their pieces (turning them into “prisoners”).
   

   • If a player places a stone that removes the last liberty from a connected group of the opponent’s stones, then that group is dead and is removed from the board (captured).
   • 

     The exception to the above rule is that you cannot capture a single stone that just captured one of your stones without playing elsewhere first. This is called the ko rule (“ko” means “eternity” in Japanese); it is needed to prevent games from never ending.

6. End the game when both players pass. Black and white must both decide there is no advantage to laying another stone.
   • The player who has captured the most stones and territory wins. Captured pieces should be placed on the board in the opponent’s territory, decreasing their score.
7. Score the game. You can use either area counting or territory counting. The two methods agree provided both players have made the same number of non-passing moves.
   • For area counting, each color scores a point for each living stone of that color and each empty intersection within their territory. White then adds their komi.
   • For territory counting, each color fills in their opponent’s territory with any prisoners of that color captured earlier in the game. Their score is then only the empty intersections in their territory. White then adds their komi.




Edit Video




Edit Tips

• An old proverb, paraphrased, recommends you to “lose your first fifty games as soon as possible.” This is good advice, but remember to pay attention to why you are losing (of course), so that when you lose again, you need not lose in the same way.
• Play demonstration games with stronger players. These are games where the more experienced player will play certain moves so that you recognize the proper responses.
• Read Yahoo’s rules, since they go into more detail about the different rules and strategies of the game. However, playing on Yahoo is not recommended, as the server uses the ranking system for Chess rather than the traditional Japanese system that is most widely used.
• Keep your calm, even if your position deteriorates unexpectedly. A close game can avalanche against a player, often not simply because they lost ground locally, but because they let fear overtake them and lost their concentration. Hang in there. If something does go wrong, at least make every effort to contain and minimize the loss. If it comes to it, lose or resign gracefully. The odds of playing a divine move (a single move that can turn a losing game into a winning game) are very slim, especially against experienced players.




Edit Warnings

• Online games are often played quickly, so watch your time.
• Although the rules of Go are often described as simple and natural, there are several different rule sets. Popular rule sets include Chinese, Japanese, New Zealand, AGA, and ING. Further complicating matters are game servers that claim to use one of the above rule sets, but don’t program them correctly. For example, Yahoo is notorious for allowing a player who disputes the scoring to turn the game into no pass Go. Fortunately, the situations where it makes a significant difference almost always occur in artificial situations unlikely to occur (or to be recognized if they do occur) in natural games.
• Be considerate to the other player, whether in person or on the internet.




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Find Games You Used to Play Online
• How to Create a Learner’s Go Board
• How to Successfully Play Internet Riddle Trail Games
• How to Play Big Booty
• How to Play Hex
• How to Become a Good Poker Player




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://www.pandanet.co.jp/English/learning_go/learning_go_5.html
• http://playgo.to/interactive/
• http://games.yahoo.com
• http://www.zone.com
• http://www.dragongoserver.net/
• http://www.pandanet.co.jp/English/
• http://www.gokgs.com/
• http://senseis.xmp.net/
• http://www.usgo.org/
• http://www.britgo.org/



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How to Make a Clementine Candle

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Make a Clementine Candle

Looking for a unique way to light up your home for a special occasion or the holidays? Transform a small piece of citrus fruit into a votive candleholder to add an extra layer of interest to your evening. All you will need is a small piece of citrus fruit, preferably a clementine orange, a paring knife and a candle.




Edit Steps




Preparing the Orange

1. Cut one orange in half. Only cut through the skin though, not through the flesh. Make a thin slice directly in the middle of the orange to create the guide.
   

   • Run your knife over the thin slice to create a deeper slice until you’ve reached the fruit.
     

2. Ease your thumb underneath the skin so your thumb is wedged between the fruit and the skin. Slide your thumb gently back and forth to release the skin from the fruit without disturbing the skin or tearing it.
   

   • Run your thumb underneath and along the entire cut area to loosen the skin from the fruit. Use fingers if you find that method to be easier.
     

   • Travel upward, toward the bottom/top of the fruit until you’ve released the fruit from the skin without breaking the skin. Perform this step on both halves of the orange.
     




Adding a Decorative Air Hole

1. Make a die-cut of a star in the top middle of one of the orange halves.
   

   • First trace the star using your paring knife. Then make precise cuts, following the template you’ve created.
     

   • Remove the middle star section and either discard or place off to the side.
     




Lighting and Using the Candle

1. Grasp the meaty middle section of the other orange half (the half that does not contain the die cut star). Twist upward. You will be creating a “wick” from the orange skin so you want the skin to protrude upward as much as possible. Pinch end together once you have enough meat.
   

2. Fill the same half of the empty orange (the half that does not contain the die cut star) with olive oil.
   

   • Slowly and carefully fill the half only ¼ to ½ way. Do not cover the top of the orange wick.
     

3. Light the wick with a match and hold for several seconds until the fire “takes.”
   

4. Place the star cut top half of the orange on top of the lit half for a unique and alluring “candle.”
   




Edit Tips

• When creating your “wick”, if you cannot find enough meat in the middle or if it rips you may need to start over with a new candle.
• You can “cheat” and simply insert a wick from another candle (or wick material from the craft store) in the bottom of the orange. Simply make a small cut in the bottom and slide the wick through. Use a silver metal cap underneath (glue in place) and then fill with olive oil. You may want to place the orange on a plate as this method may produce some olive oil leakage.
• Another approach (and safer for long-term use) is to place a battery operated in the middle of the candle and not light it. You can achieve a similar effect once the star cap is in place.




Edit Warnings

• Never leave a candle (especially this one) unattended. Extinguish the candle before going to bed or leaving the room or house.




Edit Things You’ll Need

• A basket of clementine oranges from your local grocer; look for oranges with a hearty skin that can be easily peeled in larger pieces
  

• A small, sharp paring knife
  

• A bottle of olive oil and several boxes of matches
  




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Make Glow in the Dark Candles
• How to Make Pumpkin Candles
• How to Make a Candle out of an Orange
• How to Make a Scented Candle in a Glass




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-make-a-clementine-candl-1453 – research source



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How to Make a Clementine Candle

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Make a Clementine Candle

Looking for a unique way to light up your home for a special occasion or the holidays? Transform a small piece of citrus fruit into a votive candleholder to add an extra layer of interest to your evening. All you will need is a small piece of citrus fruit, preferably a clementine orange, a paring knife and a candle.




Edit Steps




Preparing the Orange

1. Cut one orange in half. Only cut through the skin though, not through the flesh. Make a thin slice directly in the middle of the orange to create the guide.
   

   • Run your knife over the thin slice to create a deeper slice until you’ve reached the fruit.
     

2. Ease your thumb underneath the skin so your thumb is wedged between the fruit and the skin. Slide your thumb gently back and forth to release the skin from the fruit without disturbing the skin or tearing it.
   

   • Run your thumb underneath and along the entire cut area to loosen the skin from the fruit. Use fingers if you find that method to be easier.
     

   • Travel upward, toward the bottom/top of the fruit until you’ve released the fruit from the skin without breaking the skin. Perform this step on both halves of the orange.
     




Adding a Decorative Air Hole

1. Make a die-cut of a star in the top middle of one of the orange halves.
   

   • First trace the star using your paring knife. Then make precise cuts, following the template you’ve created.
     

   • Remove the middle star section and either discard or place off to the side.
     




Lighting and Using the Candle

1. Grasp the meaty middle section of the other orange half (the half that does not contain the die cut star). Twist upward. You will be creating a “wick” from the orange skin so you want the skin to protrude upward as much as possible. Pinch end together once you have enough meat.
   

2. Fill the same half of the empty orange (the half that does not contain the die cut star) with olive oil.
   

   • Slowly and carefully fill the half only ¼ to ½ way. Do not cover the top of the orange wick.
     

3. Light the wick with a match and hold for several seconds until the fire “takes.”
   

4. Place the star cut top half of the orange on top of the lit half for a unique and alluring “candle.”
   




Edit Tips

• When creating your “wick”, if you cannot find enough meat in the middle or if it rips you may need to start over with a new candle.
• You can “cheat” and simply insert a wick from another candle (or wick material from the craft store) in the bottom of the orange. Simply make a small cut in the bottom and slide the wick through. Use a silver metal cap underneath (glue in place) and then fill with olive oil. You may want to place the orange on a plate as this method may produce some olive oil leakage.
• Another approach (and safer for long-term use) is to place a battery operated in the middle of the candle and not light it. You can achieve a similar effect once the star cap is in place.




Edit Warnings

• Never leave a candle (especially this one) unattended. Extinguish the candle before going to bed or leaving the room or house.




Edit Things You’ll Need

• A basket of clementine oranges from your local grocer; look for oranges with a hearty skin that can be easily peeled in larger pieces
  

• A small, sharp paring knife
  

• A bottle of olive oil and several boxes of matches
  




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Make Glow in the Dark Candles
• How to Make Pumpkin Candles
• How to Make a Candle out of an Orange
• How to Make a Scented Candle in a Glass




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-make-a-clementine-candl-1453 – research source



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• Email this Article
• Edit
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How to Make a Clementine Candle

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Make a Clementine Candle

Looking for a unique way to light up your home for a special occasion or the holidays? Transform a small piece of citrus fruit into a votive candleholder to add an extra layer of interest to your evening. All you will need is a small piece of citrus fruit, preferably a clementine orange, a paring knife and a candle.




Edit Steps




Preparing the Orange

1. Cut one orange in half. Only cut through the skin though, not through the flesh. Make a thin slice directly in the middle of the orange to create the guide.
   

   • Run your knife over the thin slice to create a deeper slice until you’ve reached the fruit.
     

2. Ease your thumb underneath the skin so your thumb is wedged between the fruit and the skin. Slide your thumb gently back and forth to release the skin from the fruit without disturbing the skin or tearing it.
   

   • Run your thumb underneath and along the entire cut area to loosen the skin from the fruit. Use fingers if you find that method to be easier.
     

   • Travel upward, toward the bottom/top of the fruit until you’ve released the fruit from the skin without breaking the skin. Perform this step on both halves of the orange.
     




Adding a Decorative Air Hole

1. Make a die-cut of a star in the top middle of one of the orange halves.
   

   • First trace the star using your paring knife. Then make precise cuts, following the template you’ve created.
     

   • Remove the middle star section and either discard or place off to the side.
     




Lighting and Using the Candle

1. Grasp the meaty middle section of the other orange half (the half that does not contain the die cut star). Twist upward. You will be creating a “wick” from the orange skin so you want the skin to protrude upward as much as possible. Pinch end together once you have enough meat.
   

2. Fill the same half of the empty orange (the half that does not contain the die cut star) with olive oil.
   

   • Slowly and carefully fill the half only ¼ to ½ way. Do not cover the top of the orange wick.
     

3. Light the wick with a match and hold for several seconds until the fire “takes.”
   

4. Place the star cut top half of the orange on top of the lit half for a unique and alluring “candle.”
   




Edit Tips

• When creating your “wick”, if you cannot find enough meat in the middle or if it rips you may need to start over with a new candle.
• You can “cheat” and simply insert a wick from another candle (or wick material from the craft store) in the bottom of the orange. Simply make a small cut in the bottom and slide the wick through. Use a silver metal cap underneath (glue in place) and then fill with olive oil. You may want to place the orange on a plate as this method may produce some olive oil leakage.
• Another approach (and safer for long-term use) is to place a battery operated in the middle of the candle and not light it. You can achieve a similar effect once the star cap is in place.




Edit Warnings

• Never leave a candle (especially this one) unattended. Extinguish the candle before going to bed or leaving the room or house.




Edit Things You’ll Need

• A basket of clementine oranges from your local grocer; look for oranges with a hearty skin that can be easily peeled in larger pieces
  

• A small, sharp paring knife
  

• A bottle of olive oil and several boxes of matches
  




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Make Glow in the Dark Candles
• How to Make Pumpkin Candles
• How to Make a Candle out of an Orange
• How to Make a Scented Candle in a Glass




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-make-a-clementine-candl-1453 – research source



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• Read on wikiHow
• Email this Article
• Edit
• Discuss
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How to Get Rid of Bees

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Get Rid of Bees

While every person has a responsibility in ensuring the ongoing health of the world’s busiest pollinators, no person should be placed at risk of bee stings when bees invade living zones, especially where allergic people are at risk. However, attempting to remove bees yourself is a hazardous business and the benefits of doing it yourself rarely outweigh those of having a professional do the job properly, if ever. So, for this tutorial, the emphasis is more on increasing your own knowledge of bee habits, using professionals to remove bees when they’re an actual problem and practicing a few bee-proofing techniques where possible.




Edit Steps




Do You Have a Bee Infestation?

1. Ascertain whether you’re actually dealing with bees and not some other stinging insect. Wasps, hornets and yellow-jackets are just some of the nastier insects that sometimes are mistaken for bees. It’s important to get the type of insect right, as the manner in which they need to be dealt with will matter for safety purposes; few people are happy to let wasp colonies grow larger on their properties, while a bee colony may be something that can be managed around.
   

   • When checking what insects you’re dealing with, do so with great care––a bee colony typically contains anywhere from 8,000 to 60,000 bees, or more. And if it’s not bees, you could be dealing with wasps or hornets and they are easily riled. Exercise extreme caution when attempting to gather more information about the particular insects.
   • If the bees are a brownish orange color and have fuzzy bodies, they are honeybees.
     

   • Bees tend to congregate around the nesting area at dawn or dusk, times when they leave or return from the hive.
   • If it is bees, the type of bee will depend on where you live––consider taking images using a long-range lens and comparing the images with online identification photos of bees.
2. Ascertain exactly what type of bee infestation you have. The type of infestation will determine the speed with which you need to react and the type of help you’ll need.
   • Is a building or outdoor area suffering from a swarming of bees? If there is an open-air cluster of honeybees (for example, gathering around a tree branch), more or less football size, it is a swarm. This occurs when the bees decide to create a new colony. About half the bees from the original nest will take off in a swarm and look for a place to start a new home. As long as there is no white honeycomb, these bees will not be aggressive (even if they are Africanized, since there is currently no home to protect) and should be left alone unless they are causing a threat. Don’t panic––most honeybee swarms are not dangerous if you leave them well alone and keep your distance.^[1] Bothering the bees in this stage could cause bigger problems as they defend themselves. Instead of trying to destroy the swarm, call your local beekeeping association. They will be happy to pick up the valuable bees and take them away. In the meantime, keep out of the way of the infested space. In particular, keep young children and pets away from the swarm.
   • Have the bees made a hive in your backyard? This might cause concern for outdoor leisure and gardening activities but isn’t usually cause for an immediate panic. If the honeybees are coming and going from a cavity in a tree or building, it is a beehive. This can only be safely removed by a professional exterminator or beekeeper. In some cases, leaving it alone is the best option, but seek advice first.
   • Do you feel that there are lots of bees in your area and this is of concern because you or other household members are allergic to bees? You might want to monitor how the bees go about their business and warn household members to always wear covered shoes when going outdoors and to not perform gardening duties where bees alight. It is possible to garden and use your backyard in harmony with bees, even if you have allergies to bees, provided everyone is cautious at all times.
   • Bear in mind your own squeamishness. Be aware of how much of your reaction to the presence of bees is born of fear or worry of the unknown in relation to bee behavior. A large beehive is rarely a danger to many people. And bees going about their daily business in ways that don’t interfere with yours are not to be bothered with. On the other hand, if bees have swarmed inside your home, you do need to get help quickly, so that you can safely return indoors as soon as possible. And if you have householders with bee allergies, then it’s legitimate to be concerned about large amounts of bees anywhere near your home or work.
3. Call in a professional to remove bee swarms or beehives. Don’t attempt to remove large amounts of bees yourself; only people used to handling bees should undertake such a job. Moreover, the cost of buying the necessary equipment and the time it takes to learn how to do bee removal properly are prohibitive for the average person, not to mention the painful lessons learned along the way (namely, stings). At best stings are painful, at worst deadly if you’re allergic to them. DIY bee removal really isn’t worth the risk.
   • A beekeeper is probably your first port of call, especially for beehives. Many beekeepers will happily remove a beehive of wild bees for free, given the dwindling amount of wild bees.^[2] (You should reimburse the travel and meal costs for beekeepers performing this service for you, out of courtesy.)
   • Talk to a beekeeper first about dealing with a bee swarm. He or she may be able to help but if not, will certainly know someone who can. In general, most beekeepers will be happy to remove the bees for you.^[1]
   • Beekeepers can be found doing an online or Yellow Pages search, or contact your local co-op or retailer of local honey supplies.
   • If you live in a university town where you know there is a zoology or agricultural department, there may be insect experts willing to give you advice.
   • Pest control agents may be another source of advice and help.




Options for Removal of Bees

Assuming you’ve arranged a professional to remove the bees, here are some of the things that may occur (and that it helps for you to be aware of, so that you can ask pertinent questions):

1. Get beehives removed if they’re in walls or roofs. These hives often create the biggest problem because they typically contain anywhere from 20 to 80 pounds of honeycomb! Call a professional if you know there have been bees in your wall or roof for some time, or if you are completely unaware of how long they have been there.
   • If a beehive has formed in a building’s wall, the beehive must be exposed by removing paneling. Then the honeycombs and brood combs must be cut out; all the live bees and combs are then taken away. This should only be done by a professional familiar with bees.
     

   • Don’t seal bees in. Sealing a beehive in a building wall may force the bees to locate an exit on the inside of the building. They won’t go away, they’ll just get more resourceful.
2. If the beehive is in a tree, the tree must usually be cut down and then the trunk or limb split open to remove the combs and bees.
   

3. If a honeybee swarm has occurred outside on a tree or fence, or inside a building or room, stay calm and call the beekeeper. Swarms can be smoked out or you may be ask to simply wait it out. The bees don’t want to make a building or your fence their new home; this is a transitory happening while a new queen and her consorts set forth to find a new home. Swarms usually last only a day or two.^[1]
4. Get chimney bees removed professionally. If you have a beehive in your chimney, do not start a fire in an attempt to get rid of the bees. If the hive has been established for any length of time, there will be honeycomb in the chimney. Starting a fire will cause the honey to melt, creating far more of a mess than you will be able to handle. This may attract more bees in the chimney, or even other animals. Furthermore, lighting a fire will generally not deter the bees enough to leave the nest permanently.
5. Consider leaving the beehive alone. It may be easier and safer to leave the beehive alone. Discuss this option with the bee professional and decide whether the risks outweigh the benefits––if the bees are going about their daily business without bothering you, you’ll be rewarded with a beautifully pollinated garden!
   




Keeping Bees at Bay

The best focus on getting rid of bees is preventing them from discovering (or rediscovering) that your backyard is a nice place to set up home! The following steps provide various ways to discourage bees from using your living spaces as theirs too.

1. Remove attracting odors. Assume you have had bees removed from a tree trunk hollow. The honeycomb scent will last an indefinite period of time, which will attract new bee colonies, creating a recurring problem. The hole must be filled and the smell muffled.
   

   • Fill the hole in the tree with enough crumpled newspaper to do the job.
     

   • Then, fill the remaining space with the expanding foam. This will not solve the problem in and of itself, although it will keep the bees away. The problem is, other critters will still be able to smell the honey and will be able to chew through your filler material to get to it. This will allow the bees back in. The solution is that you must place the wire mesh (galvanized screen) over any openings before capping off the entire whole with expanding foam. These steps will prevent a recurring bee problem in that same location. (Most arborists (tree experts) do not recommend filling tree holes with expanding foam, because it stops the flow of air into the tree, encouraging fungal growth). Bees emit a pheromone that will attract new bees, pressure cleaning is extremely effective in eliminating.
     

   • Stainless wire mesh, caulked and nailed into place over the hole is recommended.
     

2. Make a bee trap. This is for catching yard bees, and isn’t suitable for the amounts of bees found in a beehive or swarm. It’s also fairly counterproductive to having a healthy garden, so think twice before using this trap.^[2]
   

   It is also possible to purchase proprietary varieties of insect traps.

   • Cut off the neck portion of a large soda bottle.
   • Turn this upside down inside the remainder of the soda bottle. Staple it in place so that it hangs down like a funnel.
   • Pour in a few inches or fruit juice or sugary soda to attract the bees. Insects such as bees (and flies) will fly in but won’t be able to find their way back out again.
   • Hang where the bees are most bothersome, such as at an exit/entrance way in your yard.
3. Take care in a bee-attractive garden. This means avoiding being close to flowers that bees love (most of them), so it may not be such a fun option if you’re a keen gardener. However, you can help yourself by wearing body covering clothing, closed shoes or boots and good quality gardening gloves when gardening or cleaning the yard.
   

   Beware planting flowers that the bees adore!

   • Plant less fragrant flowers. Flowers with higher levels of fragrance tend to attract bees more. Avoid any flower with “bee” in its name, such as bee balm, as you can be sure the plant was so named because bees love it!
   • Trim trees that seem to attract bees, to reduce the amount of flowers produced. Of course, this will also reduced the amount of fruit or nuts it produces too, so it’s not a good solution if you want a productive garden.




Edit Video




Edit Tips

• If there are a myriad of bees covering almost an entire tree with a loud buzzing, you should not mess with them. They are not aggressive in this state and are simply gathering food. When the pollen is used up, they will move on. The solution here is prevention; keep the tree trimmed so there are less blossoms to attract bees next time.
• Often bees will take over hummingbird feeders during dry times of the year. If this happens, simply remove the feeder for about a week. This will break up the bee’s flight pattern and cause them to look elsewhere for water.
• If you are in an area of the United States in which Africanized bees have not migrated (middle and northern areas), you will likely be able to find a beekeeper who would be willing to remove the bees for free, as long as they are in a somewhat convenient spot.
• If using a pest removal company, shop around for a good price. Read reviews of each company and get multiple quotes. Avoid using any company that takes advantage of fear by charging exorbitant amounts.
• Borax sprinkled in a nest will kill bees. But adding borax to a hive is a dangerous activity, and it’s generally not a good idea to kill the bees; aim for shifting them right off your property rather than killing them.
• Bees sting for two reasons only: to protect their home and when personally threatened, like when swatted or when trapped in clothing or hair. When a bee stings it dies moments later, except for the queen bee. A bee will only sting if it’s the last thing it can do. However, when a bee stings, it leaves a detectable scent marker that attracts more bees to sting. Once bees start stinging, they can become aggressive and an attack can quickly escalate.
• If attacked by bees, run! Get into a building or car and close the door; barriers form the best defense. If bees follow you into a car, they will immediately lose their desire to attack and will try to find a way out. Crack a window on the sunny side and they will walk up it and fly out.




Edit Warnings

• If the nest is very large or hard to reach, don’t risk your safety. Call an exterminator.
• Exterminating a beehive in a building will leave dead bees and honey inside that will attract rodents and other vermin.
• Leaving a beehive in a wall after removal is one of the biggest mistakes that people make. Many pest control companies will not do the removal, and worse, will often not tell you that the beehive should be removed. Bee removal without beehive removal is like changing your oil without putting the oil filter back in; you are inevitably going to have problems of a more serious nature than the original problem. Bees keep the hive cool by circulating air with their wings. Without this primitive cooling method, the honey will inevitably melt and create a permanently lingering smell that will attract bees time and time again (not to mention other pests). Extermination alone simply will not solve the problem.
• Some beekeepers won’t take bees anymore for fear of diseases (for example, Southeast Texas).
• Don’t use household pesticide sprays on bees. Spraying a swarm with chemicals, can cause the bees to attack and you’ll be worse off for it.
• It can be extemely dangerous to attempt to remove bees yourself if you are not a professional, especially since the spread of the Africanized variety. If you are in an area to which African “Killer” Bees have migrated, do not attempt to remove a hive (Florida, Texas, Arizona, Nevada, and Southern California). Even entering the vicinity of their hive may set off a defensive reaction. Being as close as 100 feet to a killer beehive can spark such a reaction!
• If you have a known bee allergy, or suspect you may have one (such allergies tend to be inherited), do not approach the bees at all. Call in the professionals immediately.
• Spraying a swarm with water, will cause the bees to disperse and then reform in the same location afterwards. Don’t attempt it.
• Bees in a birdhouse can be dangerous if they are Africanized “killer” bees. Call a bee removal specialist in this situation.




Edit Things You’ll Need

• Newspaper
• Expanding foam
• Wire mesh (galvanized screen)
• Protective clothing
• An Epipen or other injectable epinephrine if you’re allergic




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Destroy a Wasp Nest
• How to Repel Bees
• How to Get Rid of Killer Bees
• How to Get Rid of Carpenter Bees
• How to Escape from Killer Bees
• How to Get Bees out of Your Classroom
• How to Get Rid of a Beehive




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://adkinsbeeremoval.com/how-to-get-rid-of-bees.html – research source
• http://www.familyhomesnetwork.com/homeandgardens/bees.html – research source
• http://ALLFloridaBeeRemoval.com – research source
• http://www.adkinsbeeremoval.com/how-to-get-rid-of-bees.html – research source
• http://www.propacificbeeremoval.com/bee-faqs/why-me/ – research source



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How to Get Rid of Bees

Written by admin on May 23, 2013 - 0 Comments
Categories: wikihow

How to Get Rid of Bees

While every person has a responsibility in ensuring the ongoing health of the world’s busiest pollinators, no person should be placed at risk of bee stings when bees invade living zones, especially where allergic people are at risk. However, attempting to remove bees yourself is a hazardous business and the benefits of doing it yourself rarely outweigh those of having a professional do the job properly, if ever. So, for this tutorial, the emphasis is more on increasing your own knowledge of bee habits, using professionals to remove bees when they’re an actual problem and practicing a few bee-proofing techniques where possible.




Edit Steps




Do You Have a Bee Infestation?

1. Ascertain whether you’re actually dealing with bees and not some other stinging insect. Wasps, hornets and yellow-jackets are just some of the nastier insects that sometimes are mistaken for bees. It’s important to get the type of insect right, as the manner in which they need to be dealt with will matter for safety purposes; few people are happy to let wasp colonies grow larger on their properties, while a bee colony may be something that can be managed around.
   

   • When checking what insects you’re dealing with, do so with great care––a bee colony typically contains anywhere from 8,000 to 60,000 bees, or more. And if it’s not bees, you could be dealing with wasps or hornets and they are easily riled. Exercise extreme caution when attempting to gather more information about the particular insects.
   • If the bees are a brownish orange color and have fuzzy bodies, they are honeybees.
     

   • Bees tend to congregate around the nesting area at dawn or dusk, times when they leave or return from the hive.
   • If it is bees, the type of bee will depend on where you live––consider taking images using a long-range lens and comparing the images with online identification photos of bees.
2. Ascertain exactly what type of bee infestation you have. The type of infestation will determine the speed with which you need to react and the type of help you’ll need.
   • Is a building or outdoor area suffering from a swarming of bees? If there is an open-air cluster of honeybees (for example, gathering around a tree branch), more or less football size, it is a swarm. This occurs when the bees decide to create a new colony. About half the bees from the original nest will take off in a swarm and look for a place to start a new home. As long as there is no white honeycomb, these bees will not be aggressive (even if they are Africanized, since there is currently no home to protect) and should be left alone unless they are causing a threat. Don’t panic––most honeybee swarms are not dangerous if you leave them well alone and keep your distance.^[1] Bothering the bees in this stage could cause bigger problems as they defend themselves. Instead of trying to destroy the swarm, call your local beekeeping association. They will be happy to pick up the valuable bees and take them away. In the meantime, keep out of the way of the infested space. In particular, keep young children and pets away from the swarm.
   • Have the bees made a hive in your backyard? This might cause concern for outdoor leisure and gardening activities but isn’t usually cause for an immediate panic. If the honeybees are coming and going from a cavity in a tree or building, it is a beehive. This can only be safely removed by a professional exterminator or beekeeper. In some cases, leaving it alone is the best option, but seek advice first.
   • Do you feel that there are lots of bees in your area and this is of concern because you or other household members are allergic to bees? You might want to monitor how the bees go about their business and warn household members to always wear covered shoes when going outdoors and to not perform gardening duties where bees alight. It is possible to garden and use your backyard in harmony with bees, even if you have allergies to bees, provided everyone is cautious at all times.
   • Bear in mind your own squeamishness. Be aware of how much of your reaction to the presence of bees is born of fear or worry of the unknown in relation to bee behavior. A large beehive is rarely a danger to many people. And bees going about their daily business in ways that don’t interfere with yours are not to be bothered with. On the other hand, if bees have swarmed inside your home, you do need to get help quickly, so that you can safely return indoors as soon as possible. And if you have householders with bee allergies, then it’s legitimate to be concerned about large amounts of bees anywhere near your home or work.
3. Call in a professional to remove bee swarms or beehives. Don’t attempt to remove large amounts of bees yourself; only people used to handling bees should undertake such a job. Moreover, the cost of buying the necessary equipment and the time it takes to learn how to do bee removal properly are prohibitive for the average person, not to mention the painful lessons learned along the way (namely, stings). At best stings are painful, at worst deadly if you’re allergic to them. DIY bee removal really isn’t worth the risk.
   • A beekeeper is probably your first port of call, especially for beehives. Many beekeepers will happily remove a beehive of wild bees for free, given the dwindling amount of wild bees.^[2] (You should reimburse the travel and meal costs for beekeepers performing this service for you, out of courtesy.)
   • Talk to a beekeeper first about dealing with a bee swarm. He or she may be able to help but if not, will certainly know someone who can. In general, most beekeepers will be happy to remove the bees for you.^[1]
   • Beekeepers can be found doing an online or Yellow Pages search, or contact your local co-op or retailer of local honey supplies.
   • If you live in a university town where you know there is a zoology or agricultural department, there may be insect experts willing to give you advice.
   • Pest control agents may be another source of advice and help.




Options for Removal of Bees

Assuming you’ve arranged a professional to remove the bees, here are some of the things that may occur (and that it helps for you to be aware of, so that you can ask pertinent questions):

1. Get beehives removed if they’re in walls or roofs. These hives often create the biggest problem because they typically contain anywhere from 20 to 80 pounds of honeycomb! Call a professional if you know there have been bees in your wall or roof for some time, or if you are completely unaware of how long they have been there.
   • If a beehive has formed in a building’s wall, the beehive must be exposed by removing paneling. Then the honeycombs and brood combs must be cut out; all the live bees and combs are then taken away. This should only be done by a professional familiar with bees.
     

   • Don’t seal bees in. Sealing a beehive in a building wall may force the bees to locate an exit on the inside of the building. They won’t go away, they’ll just get more resourceful.
2. If the beehive is in a tree, the tree must usually be cut down and then the trunk or limb split open to remove the combs and bees.
   

3. If a honeybee swarm has occurred outside on a tree or fence, or inside a building or room, stay calm and call the beekeeper. Swarms can be smoked out or you may be ask to simply wait it out. The bees don’t want to make a building or your fence their new home; this is a transitory happening while a new queen and her consorts set forth to find a new home. Swarms usually last only a day or two.^[1]
4. Get chimney bees removed professionally. If you have a beehive in your chimney, do not start a fire in an attempt to get rid of the bees. If the hive has been established for any length of time, there will be honeycomb in the chimney. Starting a fire will cause the honey to melt, creating far more of a mess than you will be able to handle. This may attract more bees in the chimney, or even other animals. Furthermore, lighting a fire will generally not deter the bees enough to leave the nest permanently.
5. Consider leaving the beehive alone. It may be easier and safer to leave the beehive alone. Discuss this option with the bee professional and decide whether the risks outweigh the benefits––if the bees are going about their daily business without bothering you, you’ll be rewarded with a beautifully pollinated garden!
   




Keeping Bees at Bay

The best focus on getting rid of bees is preventing them from discovering (or rediscovering) that your backyard is a nice place to set up home! The following steps provide various ways to discourage bees from using your living spaces as theirs too.

1. Remove attracting odors. Assume you have had bees removed from a tree trunk hollow. The honeycomb scent will last an indefinite period of time, which will attract new bee colonies, creating a recurring problem. The hole must be filled and the smell muffled.
   

   • Fill the hole in the tree with enough crumpled newspaper to do the job.
     

   • Then, fill the remaining space with the expanding foam. This will not solve the problem in and of itself, although it will keep the bees away. The problem is, other critters will still be able to smell the honey and will be able to chew through your filler material to get to it. This will allow the bees back in. The solution is that you must place the wire mesh (galvanized screen) over any openings before capping off the entire whole with expanding foam. These steps will prevent a recurring bee problem in that same location. (Most arborists (tree experts) do not recommend filling tree holes with expanding foam, because it stops the flow of air into the tree, encouraging fungal growth). Bees emit a pheromone that will attract new bees, pressure cleaning is extremely effective in eliminating.
     

   • Stainless wire mesh, caulked and nailed into place over the hole is recommended.
     

2. Make a bee trap. This is for catching yard bees, and isn’t suitable for the amounts of bees found in a beehive or swarm. It’s also fairly counterproductive to having a healthy garden, so think twice before using this trap.^[2]
   

   It is also possible to purchase proprietary varieties of insect traps.

   • Cut off the neck portion of a large soda bottle.
   • Turn this upside down inside the remainder of the soda bottle. Staple it in place so that it hangs down like a funnel.
   • Pour in a few inches or fruit juice or sugary soda to attract the bees. Insects such as bees (and flies) will fly in but won’t be able to find their way back out again.
   • Hang where the bees are most bothersome, such as at an exit/entrance way in your yard.
3. Take care in a bee-attractive garden. This means avoiding being close to flowers that bees love (most of them), so it may not be such a fun option if you’re a keen gardener. However, you can help yourself by wearing body covering clothing, closed shoes or boots and good quality gardening gloves when gardening or cleaning the yard.
   

   Beware planting flowers that the bees adore!

   • Plant less fragrant flowers. Flowers with higher levels of fragrance tend to attract bees more. Avoid any flower with “bee” in its name, such as bee balm, as you can be sure the plant was so named because bees love it!
   • Trim trees that seem to attract bees, to reduce the amount of flowers produced. Of course, this will also reduced the amount of fruit or nuts it produces too, so it’s not a good solution if you want a productive garden.




Edit Video




Edit Tips

• If there are a myriad of bees covering almost an entire tree with a loud buzzing, you should not mess with them. They are not aggressive in this state and are simply gathering food. When the pollen is used up, they will move on. The solution here is prevention; keep the tree trimmed so there are less blossoms to attract bees next time.
• Often bees will take over hummingbird feeders during dry times of the year. If this happens, simply remove the feeder for about a week. This will break up the bee’s flight pattern and cause them to look elsewhere for water.
• If you are in an area of the United States in which Africanized bees have not migrated (middle and northern areas), you will likely be able to find a beekeeper who would be willing to remove the bees for free, as long as they are in a somewhat convenient spot.
• If using a pest removal company, shop around for a good price. Read reviews of each company and get multiple quotes. Avoid using any company that takes advantage of fear by charging exorbitant amounts.
• Borax sprinkled in a nest will kill bees. But adding borax to a hive is a dangerous activity, and it’s generally not a good idea to kill the bees; aim for shifting them right off your property rather than killing them.
• Bees sting for two reasons only: to protect their home and when personally threatened, like when swatted or when trapped in clothing or hair. When a bee stings it dies moments later, except for the queen bee. A bee will only sting if it’s the last thing it can do. However, when a bee stings, it leaves a detectable scent marker that attracts more bees to sting. Once bees start stinging, they can become aggressive and an attack can quickly escalate.
• If attacked by bees, run! Get into a building or car and close the door; barriers form the best defense. If bees follow you into a car, they will immediately lose their desire to attack and will try to find a way out. Crack a window on the sunny side and they will walk up it and fly out.




Edit Warnings

• If the nest is very large or hard to reach, don’t risk your safety. Call an exterminator.
• Exterminating a beehive in a building will leave dead bees and honey inside that will attract rodents and other vermin.
• Leaving a beehive in a wall after removal is one of the biggest mistakes that people make. Many pest control companies will not do the removal, and worse, will often not tell you that the beehive should be removed. Bee removal without beehive removal is like changing your oil without putting the oil filter back in; you are inevitably going to have problems of a more serious nature than the original problem. Bees keep the hive cool by circulating air with their wings. Without this primitive cooling method, the honey will inevitably melt and create a permanently lingering smell that will attract bees time and time again (not to mention other pests). Extermination alone simply will not solve the problem.
• Some beekeepers won’t take bees anymore for fear of diseases (for example, Southeast Texas).
• Don’t use household pesticide sprays on bees. Spraying a swarm with chemicals, can cause the bees to attack and you’ll be worse off for it.
• It can be extemely dangerous to attempt to remove bees yourself if you are not a professional, especially since the spread of the Africanized variety. If you are in an area to which African “Killer” Bees have migrated, do not attempt to remove a hive (Florida, Texas, Arizona, Nevada, and Southern California). Even entering the vicinity of their hive may set off a defensive reaction. Being as close as 100 feet to a killer beehive can spark such a reaction!
• If you have a known bee allergy, or suspect you may have one (such allergies tend to be inherited), do not approach the bees at all. Call in the professionals immediately.
• Spraying a swarm with water, will cause the bees to disperse and then reform in the same location afterwards. Don’t attempt it.
• Bees in a birdhouse can be dangerous if they are Africanized “killer” bees. Call a bee removal specialist in this situation.




Edit Things You’ll Need

• Newspaper
• Expanding foam
• Wire mesh (galvanized screen)
• Protective clothing
• An Epipen or other injectable epinephrine if you’re allergic




Edit Related wikiHows

• How to Destroy a Wasp Nest
• How to Repel Bees
• How to Get Rid of Killer Bees
• How to Get Rid of Carpenter Bees
• How to Escape from Killer Bees
• How to Get Bees out of Your Classroom
• How to Get Rid of a Beehive




Edit Sources and Citations

• http://adkinsbeeremoval.com/how-to-get-rid-of-bees.html – research source
• http://www.familyhomesnetwork.com/homeandgardens/bees.html – research source
• http://ALLFloridaBeeRemoval.com – research source
• http://www.adkinsbeeremoval.com/how-to-get-rid-of-bees.html – research source
• http://www.propacificbeeremoval.com/bee-faqs/why-me/ – research source



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• Read on wikiHow
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• Edit
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